Bibi Graetz Colore 2021 (OWC 3)

Description

By Jane Anson in 2023 (JA100)

Just love this wine, the lyricism and the generosity of it, and its always vivid depiction of fruits and stones. So juicy, so drawn out, works with the vintage, leans into its low yields, with greengages, raspberry, plum, gentle spices, lemongrass, minerality studded with mandarin peel and sage. Translucent and yet full of flavour, once again it begs you to draw up a chair, gather friends, and enjoy. What a brilliant wine and a brilliant winemaker in Bibi Graetz. From a 58ha estate, Colore comes from the oldest vineyards of Sangiovese that range up to 135 years old.

By Decanter in 2023 (D99)

Another excellent wine from Bibi Graetz made from selected old-vine Sangiovese. Herbal and spiced on the nose, fragrant but with savoury aspects rather than overtly floral or fruity. Intense and direct, this hits you square on, with energy and forward motion. So sleek and well defined, smooth yet lively and energetic with tannins that are so beautifully executed. Almost plush and chewy giving weight and texture to the palate while actually being quite light and aerial overall. Complex and invigorating, fresh and wild at the same time – I love the character, it’s pure but with a sense of authenticity that encapsulates the terroir and winemaking philosophy so wonderfully. Ends with a minty, liquorice, spiced blackcurrant and cool cherry element that is extremely moreish!

By Wine Advocate in 2023 (WA98)

The Bibi Graetz 2021 Colore is Sangiovese from old vines, but otherwise, winemaking and the oak regime is identical to the other top red, Testamatta. In this case, fruit comes from the Lamole area with vineyards at a high 600 meters above sea level. Some are south-facing but high up on the mountain. As Bibi explains: “Colore delivers power and freshness, whereas Testamatta delivers transparency and freshness.” The Colore shows the pure energy and liveliness of Sangiovese with violet, wild cherry and orange zest. The wine delivers an elegantly earthy side with a very delineated mouthfeel driven by very fine, silly tannins. This is a beautiful wine with delicately sweet cherry on the finish. Bibi has been making little changes to this wine over the years (other than giving it a new winery home in Fiesole) to capture an ideal or benchmark for Sangiovese. His 2021 is his best wine yet. Production is 35,000 bottles, which is slightly lower compared to the last vintage.