Thienot La Vigne aux Gamins Blanc de Blancs 2011 (OWC 3)

Description

By Decanter in 2023 (D97)
The second vintage released on the Place de Bordeaux, a 100% Chardonnay from Avize made with no malolactic fermented and aged only in stainless steel tanks. A beautiful light, white gold colour in the glass, belying its 12 year age. So lifted, fresh and lively on the nose, pure and precise with citrus fruit and green orchard fruit aromatics – lemon and lime zest. Clean and clear on the palate, a true and transparent expression of succulent Chardonnay with energy, focus and interest. Balanced and harmonious, nothing out of place, not too sharp or too intense – a dosage of 2g/l ‘was sufficient’ says winemaker Nicolas Uriel and it really works to give a generous but controlled mouthfeel with lift, brightness and cool freshness all the way through, especially on the finish. Satisfying and extremely drinkable. From vines averaging 80 years old on pure limestone.

By Jane Anson in 2023 (JA94)
The character of Avize is typically focused, almost austere, but this cuvée, from a 1ha plot of old vines, has a natural concentration that led to it being bottled separately from 1997. Its distinctive richness also meant they chose to stop the softening malolactic fermentation as of the 2010 vintage, to ensure a focus on freshness and minerality. Having said all that, the challenging vintage and early harvest of 2011 has delivered an even more elegant and finessed version of Vigne aux Gamins than we found last year. In its place is an elegant and nuanced Champagne with lemongrass, green apple and cucumber notes, with gentle pulses of juice and slate minerality, and understated persistence. Things deepen through the mid palate to show the evolution of a decade since harvest, with touches of wax, quince and honeysuckle, and it seems clear that this vintage will age quicker than the 2010. Opens quickly in the glass, so where the 2010 you might want to decant half an hour before drinking, you don’t need to do so here – keep it more to 10 to 15 minutes. Great time to begin drinking to capture this finesse, and there is a good five years ahead. Harvest August 19 to 27. 3ph, 2g/l dosage. This is the first and only release, disgorged in March 2023.