Salon Le Mesnil 2012 (OWC 3)

Description

Winemaker Notes
The desire for perfection created in the infinite facets of a yellow diamond, the exquisite surprise of a tasting that takes your breath away: the pale gold of a wine held up to the light, the subtle glint of green heralding minerals, stone, chalk – so symbolic of Salon – together with wafts of fruit, dried roses in abundance, never-ending flavors that go on and on. Its freshness and slender form, precise, aristocratic acidity promising decades of glorious aging ahead, founded upon an impeccable structure. Allowed to breathe momentarily, Salon 2012 unleashes its seductive powers on the palate, with notes of pineapple, lychee, a touch of smoke; caressing with a knowing smile as beguiling and mysterious as the Mona Lisa, Salon does not reveal every secret. An alliance of glorious opponents: all is fair in love and war for the love of Salon 2012. For those in the know, the connoisseurs of today and tomorrow. Savor the flash of a smile, like a flame as it catches fire.

By Wine Advocate in 2021 (WA98+)
Back in 2014, Salon’s president Didier Depond was quoted in the press as saying that “since 2008, there has been no genuinely great vintage in Champagne” and that a 2012 from Salon wouldn’t be released. But the just-released 2012 Brut Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil shows that he had good reason to change his mind, as to my palate this is, after the 2008, the finest Salon produced this millennium. Unwinding in the glass with notes of citrus oil, wet stones, freshly baked bread, white currants and oyster shell, it’s full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a tightly wound core of fruit, racy acids and an elegant pinpoint mousse. Concluding with a long and resonant finish, this is a structured and powerful Salon that’s a lot more incisive than, for example, the 2002 at the same stage, but which also carries more muscle and substance than a leaner vintage such as 2007. For readers that have balked at the pricing of the magnum-only 2008, the 2012 isn’t far off the latter’s level in quality, and will presumably be distributed more conventionally.

By Wine Spectator in 2021 (WS95)
Like white Burgundy with bubbles, this fine-knit version has a spine of vibrant acidity and a minerally oyster shell overtone, with the plush mousse carrying a delicate mesh of yellow plum, pickled ginger, Marcona almond and dried white cherry flavors that lingers on the racy finish.